We talk about riding the wave of emotions, but what does that actually feel like?

Sports always relate back to life, and their tendency to act as endless metaphors for living mean they never stop handing out opportunities to learn more about ourselves through them. Experiencing the rawness of the present moment with surfing, snowboarding, or any adventure sport whether you’re succeeding at it or not — quite often, more intensely when you don’t — is an experience that stops time.